Romantic Era Resurgence: Popular Trends of The Period

SEW. This is a real life example of an 1830’s day dress with gigot/leg-o-mutton sleeves, a popular trend of the Romantic Era. There are many other iconic styles from this time that deserve further exploration. Photo courtesy of Bevier Historic Collection at the Illinois State Museum.

Since the beginning of time, or more accurately 7000 B.C., humans have been incorporating bold patterns and colors into their clothing, and the 2020’s are no exception!  We’ve had many ideas on how to take inspiration from the past and make it our own. From Bell-Bottom jeans to Doc Martins, this decade has had its fair share of a resurgence of old patterns. But what is this revival reminiscent of? Well, the Romantic Era is one style that comes to mind, as it’s no stranger to eccentric ensembles. 

To understand Romantic period fashion, we must first understand the ideology. Rejecting the thought process of the Enlightenment Era, 1820 saw a huge decline in logic, focusing more on the heart than the brain. As the rise of the printing press and other such technologies came about in America, the general population became more literate. An uproar of women wanting to dress as the heroines from the novels they had been reading, embracing a more dramatic and expressive style. 

From 1820 to 1825, the Romantic style underwent drastic changes, shifting from an Empire silhouette to a Romantic one. The Empire silhouette prominently featured a high waistline, just below the bust, and a loose-fitting dress. However, as the Romantic style took over, a more exaggerated triangular figure became ideal. The waistline, though still relatively high in early years, gradually lowered and became tightly cinched closer to the waist. The skirt formed into a wide bell shape, and something called the gigot sleeve, also known as the leg-o-mutton sleeve, transformed into something quite monstrous, women couldn’t even get through the door without turning sideways, and mobility in their arms was significantly restricted. Leg-o-mutton sleeves were wide and loose fitting at the top and tapered to fit the wrist or forearm at the bottom. 

With an emphasis on a narrow waist, pelerines became a tasteful accessory to use, as they added more width to the shoulders and extra padding for the neck. The first style that became popularized was a white collar made of lace, which had lapels that formed into little triangles: it almost resembles a jester’s collar but less avant-garde. Pelerines were sometimes attached to a blouse called a chemisette, which was sleeveless and could be tied around the waist. 

Another trend that became popular in the 1830’s was the already commonly worn pelisse robe which originated in 1818 as a fashionable, ornate day dress that was usually worn around the house. The pelisse robe was also referred to as the redingote, though this term wasn’t popularized until 1848–after the Romantic period was over. By 1831 this dress had been replaced with something called the pelisse mantle, as the large sleeves of the robe made it highly impractical to wear under coats. The pelisse mantle was a cloak that had an interlined structure designed to keep wearers warm in the cold winter months. It remained in fashion until 1845. 

Romantic fashion was more than just an aesthetic–it truly was a lifestyle, capturing the eras values, emotions, and shifting social dynamics. The dramatic silhouettes and exaggerated proportions were an escape, expressing a desire to embrace the beauty in an ever-changing world. Though the trends of the Romantic era eventually faded, its influences can still be found in fashion trends today. Whether through the return of oversized sleeves or cinched waists, the echoes of this expressive and imaginative era continue to inspire contemporary style.